Name: measurements of waves in a wind-wave tank under steady and time-varying wind forcing
Uploaded: 2018-02-13T13:00:00
Description: Watch this Scientific Journal Video about Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing at JoVE.com

This work was supported by the Israel Science Foundation, grant # 306/15.

1. System Preparation
<ol>
	<li>Fill the tank with tap water up to a depth of about 20 cm to satisfy deep-water condition; clean the water surface of any contaminants that may affect the surface tension.</li>
	<li>Position the instrument carriage at the desired fetch.
	<ol>
		<li>Mount the Pitot tube and position it at the center of the airflow part of the test section.</li>
		<li>Mount the wave gauge on a computer-controlled vertical stage to enable its static calibration.</li>
	</ol>
	</li>
	<li>Position the LSG asse...

<ol>
	<li>Sir William Thomson, F. R. S. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Hydrokinetic+solutions+and+observations.">Hydrokinetic solutions and observations.</a> Philosophical Magazine. 42, 362-377 (1871).</li><li>Jeffreys, H. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+the+formation+of+water+waves+by+wind.">On the formation of water waves by wind.</a> Proc. Roy. Soc. London Ser. A. 107, 189-206 (1925).</li><li>Miles, J. W. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+the+generation+of+surface+waves+by+shear+flows.">On the generation of surface waves by shear flows.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 3 (2), 185-204 (1957).</li><li>Phillips, O. M. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+the+generation+of+waves+by+turbulent+wind.">On the generation of waves by turbulent wind.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 2 (5), 417-445 (1957).</li><li>Plate, E. J., Chang, P. C., Hidy, G. M. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Experiments+on+the+generation+of+small+water+waves+by+wind.">Experiments on the generation of small water waves by wind.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 35 (4), 625-656 (1969).</li><li>Mitsuyasu, H. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+the+growth+of+the+spectrum+of+wind-generated+waves+I.">On the growth of the spectrum of wind-generated waves I.</a> Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech., Kyushu Univ. 16 (55), 459-482 (1968).</li><li>Toba, Y. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Local+balance+in+the+air-sea+boundary+processes,+I.+On+the+growth+process+of+wind+waves.">Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes, I. On the growth process of wind waves.</a> J. Oceanog. Soc. Japan. 28, 109-120 (1972).</li><li>Toba, Y. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Local+balance+in+the+air-sea+boundary+processes.+III.+On+the+spectrum+of+wind+waves.">Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes. III. On the spectrum of wind waves.</a> J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan. 29, 209-220 (1973).</li><li>Hara, T., Bock, E. J., Donelan, M. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Frequency-wavenumber+spectrum+of+wind-generated+gravity-capillary+waves.">Frequency-wavenumber spectrum of wind-generated gravity-capillary waves.</a> J. Geoph. Res. 102, 1061-1072 (1997).</li><li>Caulliez, G., Gu&#233;rin, C. -. A. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Higher-order+statistical+analysis+of+short+wind+wave+fields.">Higher-order statistical analysis of short wind wave fields.</a> J. Geophys. Res. 117, C06002 (2012).</li><li>Mitsuyasu, H., Rikiishi, K. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=The+growth+of+duration-limited+wind+waves.">The growth of duration-limited wind waves.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 85, 705-730 (1978).</li><li>Kawai, S. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Generation+of+initial+wavelets+by+instability+of+a+coupled+shear+flow+and+their+evolution+to+wind+waves.">Generation of initial wavelets by instability of a coupled shear flow and their evolution to wind waves.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 93 (4), 661-703 (1979).</li><li>Waseda, T., Toba, Y., Tulin, M. P. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Adjustment+of+wind+waves+to+sudden+changes+of+wind+speed.">Adjustment of wind waves to sudden changes of wind speed.</a> J. Oceanography. 57, 519-533 (2001).</li><li>Uz, B. M., Hara, T., Bock, E. J., Donelan, M. A. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Laboratory+observations+of+gravity-capillary+waves+under+transient+wind+forcing.">Laboratory observations of gravity-capillary waves under transient wind forcing.</a> J. Geophys. Res.: Oceans. 108 (C2), (2003).</li><li>Hwang, P. A., Wang, D. W. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Field+measurements+of+duration-limited+growth+of+wind-generated+ocean+surface+waves+at+young+stage+of+development.">Field measurements of duration-limited growth of wind-generated ocean surface waves at young stage of development.</a> J. Phys. Oceanogr. 34 (10), 2316-2326 (2004).</li><li>Hwang, P. A., Garc&#237;a-Nava, H., Ocampo-Torres, F. J. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Observations+of+wind+wave+development+in+mixed+seas+and+unsteady+wind+forcing.">Observations of wind wave development in mixed seas and unsteady wind forcing.</a> J. Phys. Oceanogr. 41, 2340-2359 (2011).</li><li>Liberzon, D., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Experimental+study+of+the+initial+stages+of+wind+waves'+spatial+evolution.">Experimental study of the initial stages of wind waves' spatial evolution.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 681, 462-498 (2011).</li><li>Miles, J. W. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+generation+of+surface+waves+by+shear+flows.+Part+2.">On generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 2.</a> J. Fluid Mech. 6 (4), 568-582 (1959).</li><li>Plant, W. J. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=A+relationship+between+wind+stress+and+wave+slope.">A relationship between wind stress and wave slope.</a> J. Geophys. Res. 87, 1961-1967 (1982).</li><li>Zavadsky, A., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Characterization+of+turbulent+air+flow+over+evolving+water-waves+in+a+wind-wave+tank.">Characterization of turbulent air flow over evolving water-waves in a wind-wave tank.</a> J. Geophys. Res. 117, C00J19 (2012).</li><li>Zavadsky, A., Liberzon, D., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Statistical+analysis+of+the+spatial+evolution+of+the+stationary+wind+wave+field.">Statistical analysis of the spatial evolution of the stationary wind wave field.</a> J. Phys. Oceanogr. 43, 65-79 (2013).</li><li>Zavadsky, A., Benetazzo, A., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=On+the+two-dimensional+structure+of+short+gravity+waves+in+a+wind+wave+tank.">On the two-dimensional structure of short gravity waves in a wind wave tank.</a> Phys. Fluids. 29 (1), 016601 (2017).</li><li>Zavadsky, A., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Investigation+of+statistical+parameters+of+the+evolving+wind+wave+field+using+Laser+Slope+Gauge.">Investigation of statistical parameters of the evolving wind wave field using Laser Slope Gauge.</a> Phys. Fluids. 29 (5), (2017).</li><li>Zavadsky, A., Shemer, L. <a target="_blank" href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?db=PubMed&cmd=Search&doptcmdl=Citation&defaultField=Title+Word&term=Water+waves+excited+by+near-impulsive+wind+forcing.">Water waves excited by near-impulsive wind forcing.</a> J. Fluid Mech. , (2017).</li></ol>

The present experimental protocol is aimed at quantitative characterization of a wave field under unsteady wind forcing that evolves in time and space. Since wind-waves are essentially random and three-dimensional, and thus vary quickly in time and space, records of individual realizations of a growing wind-wave field under time-dependent wind forcing can only provide qualitative estimates of the governing wave parameters. To achieve the goal of this protocol and obtain statistically reliable time- and fetch-dependent wa...

Since ancient times, it has been well known that waves on water surfaces are excited by wind. The current understanding of the physical mechanisms that govern this process is far from satisfactory. Numerous theories attempting to describe wind-wave generation were proposed over the years1,2,3,4, however their reliable experimental validation is not yet available. Measurements of random wind-waves in the ocean are extremely challenging due to unpredictable wind that may vary quickly in direction as well as in magnitude. Laboratory experiments have the advantage of controllable conditions that enable prolonged and repeatable measurements.
Under steady wind forcing in the laboratory environment, wind-waves evolve in space. Early laboratory experiments on waves under steady forcing performed decades ago were limited to instantaneous surface elevation measurements5,6,7,8. More recent studies also employed various optical techniques to measure instantaneous water surface inclination angle, such as LSG9,10. Those measurements allowed getting some limited qualitative information on the three-dimensional structure of wind-wave fields. When wind forcing is unstable, as it is in field experiments, additional complexity is introduced to the problem of water waves&#39; excitation by wind, since the statistical parameters of the resulting wave field vary not just in space but in time as well. The attempts made so far to describe wave evolution patterns qualitatively and quantitatively under time-dependent forcing were only partially successful11,12,13,14,15,16. The relative contribution of different plausible physical mechanisms that may lead to excitation and growth of waves due to wind action remains largely unknown.
Our experimental facility was designed with the purpose of enabling the accumulation of accurate and diverse statistical information on the variation of wind-wave field characteristics under either steady or unsteady wind forcing. Two major factors facilitated carrying out these detailed studies. First, the modest size of the facility results in relatively short characteristic evolution scales in time and space. Second, the whole experiment is fully controlled by a computer, thus enabling the performance of experimental runs under different experimental conditions automatically and practically without human intervention. These features of the experimental set-up are of crucial importance in performing experiments on waves excited from rest by impulsive wind.
Spatial growth of wind-waves under steady forcing has been studied in our facility for a range of wind velocities17. Results were compared with growth rate estimates based on the Miles18 theory as presented by Plant19. The comparison revealed that the experimental results differ notably from the theoretical predictions. Additional important parameters were also obtained in17, such as mean pressure drop in the test section, as well as the absolute values and phases of characteristic static pressure fluctuations. The shear stress at the air-water interface is essential for characterization of momentum and energy transfer between wind and waves17,19. Therefore, detailed measurements of the logarithmic boundary layer and the turbulent fluctuations in the air flow above water waves were performed at numerous fetches and wind velocities20. The values of the friction velocity u* at the air-water interface determined in this study were used to obtain dimensionless statistical parameters of the wind-waves measured in our facility21. These values were compared with the corresponding dimensionless parameters obtained in larger experimental installations and field experiments. It was demonstrated previously21 that with proper scaling, the important characteristics of the wind-wave field obtained in our small-scale facility do not differ significantly from the corresponding data accumulated in larger laboratory installations and open sea measurements. These parameters include spatial growth of the representative wave height and wave length, the shape of the frequency spectrum of the surface elevation, as well as the values of higher statistical moments.
The subsequent studies carried out in our facility22,23 showed that wind waves are essentially random and three-dimensional. To get a better insight into the 3D structure of wind waves, an attempt was made to perform quantitative time-dependent measurements of water surface elevation over an extended area using stereo video imaging22. Due to inadequate computer power available at present and processing algorithms that are not yet sufficiently effective, these attempts proved to be only partially successful. However, it was demonstrated that combined use of a conventional capacitance-type wave gauge and the LSG provides valuable information on the spatial structure of wind waves. Simultaneous application of both those instruments enables independent measurements with high temporal resolution of the instantaneous surface elevation and of the two components of the instantaneous surface slope23. These measurements allow estimation of both the dominant frequency and dominant wave length of the waves, as well as providing insight into the wave structure in the direction normal to the wind. A pitot tube, which can be moved vertically by a computer-controlled motor, complements the set of sensors and is used for measurements of wind velocity.
All those studies made clear that randomness and three-dimensionality of wind waves result in significant variability of the measured parameters even for steady wind forcing and a single measuring location. Thus, prolonged measurements with duration commensurate with the characteristic time scales of the measured wave field are needed to accumulate sufficient information for extracting reliable statistical quantities. To gain valuable physical insight into the mechanisms governing spatial variation of the wave field, it is imperative to carry out measurements at numerous locations and for as many values of the wind flow rate as possible in the test section. To achieve this goal, it is thus highly desirable to apply an automated experimental procedure.
Experiments on waves excited by unsteady wind forcing introduce an additional level of complexity. In such studies, it is imperative to relate the instantaneous measured parameters to the instantaneous level of the wind speed. Consider experiments on waves excited from rest by a nearly impulsive wind forcing as an important example. In this case, numerous independent measurements are needed of the wind-wave field evolving under the action of wind that varies in time following the same prescribed pattern24. Meaningful statistical parameters, expressed as a function of time elapsed since the initiation of air flow, are then calculated by averaging the data extracted from the accumulated ensemble of independent realizations. This undertaking may involve tens and hundreds of hours of continuous sampling. The total duration of experimental sessions required to accomplish such an ambitious task renders the whole approach unfeasible, unless the experiment is fully automated. No such fully computerized experimental procedure in wind-wave facilities has been developed until recently. That is among the main reasons for the lack of reliable statistical data on wind waves under unsteady forcing.
Since the facility used for the experiment is not constructed from commercially available, off-the-shelf hardware, a brief description of its main parts is provided here.
<img alt="Figure 1" class="xfigimg" src="/files/ftp_upload/56480/56480fig1.jpg" /> 
Figure 1. Schematic (not to scale) view of the experimental facility. 1 - blower; 2 - inflow settling chamber; 3 - outflow settling chamber; 4 - silencer boxes; 5 - test section; with a 6 - beach; 7 - heat exchanger; 8 - honeycomb; 9 - nozzle; 10 - wavemaker; 11 - flap; 12 - instrument carriage; 13 - wave gauge driven by a stepper motor; 14 - Pitot tube driven by a stepper motor. <a href="http://cloudflare.jove.com/files/ftp_upload/56480/56480fig1large.jpg" target="_blank">Please click here to view a larger version of this figure.</a>
The experimental facility consists of a closed loop wind tunnel mounted over a wave tank (a schematic view is shown in Figure 1). The test section is 5 m long, 0.4 m wide, and 0.5 m deep. The sidewalls and floor are made of 6 mm thick glass plates and are enclosed within a frame made of aluminum profiles. A 40-cm long flap provides a smooth expansion of the airflow cross-section from the nozzle to the water surface. Wave energy absorbing beach made of porous packing material is located at the far end of the tank. A computer-controlled blower allows attaining mean air flow velocity in the test section up to 15 m/s.
The custom-made capacitance-type 100 mm-long wave gauge is made of anodized tantalum. 0.3 mm wire is mounted on a vertical stage driven by a PC-controlled step motor designed for wave gauge calibration. A Pitot tube with a diameter of 3 mm is used for measuring the dynamic pressure in the central airflow part of the test section.
The LSG, measuring instantaneous 2D water surface slope, is installed on a frame detached from the test section that can be positioned at any location along the tank (Figure 2). LSG consists of four main parts: a laser diode, a Fresnel lens, a diffusive screen, and a Position Sensing Detector (PSD) assembly. The laser diode generates a 650 nm (red), 200 mW focusable laser beam with diameter of about 0.5 mm. The 26.4 cm diameter Fresnel lens with focal length of 22.86 cm directs the incoming laser beam to the 25 x&#160;25 cm2 diffusive screen located in the back focal plane of the lens.
<img alt="Figure 2" class="xfigimg" src="/files/ftp_upload/56480/56480fig2.jpg" /> 
Figure 2. Schematic view of the Laser Slope Gauge (LSG). 1 - laser diode; 2 - Fresnel lens; 3 - diffusive screen; 4 - Position Sensor Detector (PSD). <a href="http://cloudflare.jove.com/files/ftp_upload/56480/56480fig2large.jpg" target="_blank">Please click here to view a larger version of this figure.</a>
This protocol describes the procedure that allows performing experiments in which numerous parameters characterizing unsteady waves are measured simultaneously under time-dependent wind forcing. The procedure can be adjusted to any desired dependence of wind velocity on time that can be attained in view of the technical limitations of the experimental facility. The present protocol describes specifically experiments in which in every realization, wind starts nearly impulsively over initially calm water. The steady wind forcing then lasts for long enough that the wind-wave field everywhere in the test section attains quasi-steady state. The wind eventually is shut down, again nearly impulsively. At all stages, multiple wave parameters are recorded. The procedure that allows computation of numerous statistically representative ensemble-averaged quantities characterizing the instantaneous local wind-wave field is novel, and was developed in the course of recent experiments carried out in our facility22,23,24.

<table>
	<tbody>
		<tr>
			<td>PSD</td>
			<td>THORLABS</td>
			<td>PDP90A</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Laser Diode</td>
			<td></td>
			<td></td>
			<td>any laser pointer &#8804; 200 mW</td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Aspheric Fresnel Lens</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#46-390</td>
			<td>Diameter 10.4&#39;&#39;, Focal length 9&#39;&#39;</td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Wave-gauge</td>
			<td></td>
			<td></td>
			<td>custom made</td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Pressure Transducer</td>
			<td>MAMAC SYSTEMS</td>
			<td>PR-274-R2-VDC</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Signal Conditioner</td>
			<td></td>
			<td></td>
			<td>custom made</td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Diffusive screen</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#02-147</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Water tank</td>
			<td></td>
			<td></td>
			<td>custome made</td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>A/D card PCI-6221</td>
			<td>National Instruments</td>
			<td>779066-01</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>Pitot tube</td>
			<td>KIMO Instruments</td>
			<td>12971</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>15&#176; Nom. VIS-NIR Coated, Wedge Prism</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#47-624</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>10&#176; Nom. VIS 0&#176; Coated, Wedge Prism</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#49-444</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>2.5&#176; Nom. Fused Silica Wedge Prism Uncoated</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#84-863</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>4&#176; Nom. Uncoated, Wedge Prism</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#43-650</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>5.0&#176; Nom. Fused Silica Wedge Prism Uncoated</td>
			<td>EDMUND OPTICS</td>
			<td>#84-865</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
		<tr>
			<td>LabView Full Development System</td>
			<td>National Instruments</td>
			<td>776670-35</td>
			<td></td>
		</tr>
	</tbody>
</table>

measurements of waves in a wind-wave tank under steady and time-varying wind forcing

This manuscript describes an experimental procedure that allows obtaining diverse quantitative information on temporal and spatial evolution of water waves excited by time-dependent and steady wind forcing. Capacitance-type wave gauge and Laser Slope Gauge (LSG) are used to measure instantaneous water surface elevation and two components of the instantaneous surface slope at a number of locations along the test section of a wind-wave facility. The computer-controlled blower provides airflow over the water in the tank whose rate can vary in time. In the present experiments, the wind speed in the test section initially increases quickly from rest to the set value. It is then kept constant for the prescribed duration; finally, the airflow is shut down. At the beginning of each experimental run, the water surface is calm and there is no wind. Operation of the blower is initiated simultaneously with the acquisition of data provided by all sensors by a computer; data acquisition continues until the waves in the tank fully decay. Multiple independent runs performed under identical forcing conditions allow determining statistically reliable ensemble-averaged characteristic parameters that quantitatively describe wind-waves&#39; variation in time for the initial development stage as a function of fetch. The procedure also allows characterizing the spatial evolution of the wave field under steady wind forcing, as well as decay of waves in time, once the wind is shut down, as a function of fetch.

The representative ensemble-averaged results are plotted in Figure 6, Figure 7, and Figure 8. The variation of the RMS values of the instantaneous surface elevation &#60;&#951;2&#62;1/2 that characterizes the amplitude of random wind waves as presented in Figure 6 as a function of time elapsed since initiation of the b...

Watch this Scientific Journal Video about Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing at JoVE.com

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

This manuscript describes a fully computer-controlled procedure that allows obtaining reliable statistical parameters from experiments of water waves excited by steady and unsteady wind forcing in a small-scale facility.

This manuscript describes an experimental procedure that allows obtaining diverse quantitative information on temporal and spatial evolution of water ...

The overall goal of this experimental procedure is to enable accumulation of diverse reliable statistical parameters that characterize spatial and temporal evolution of water waves under study and time-dependent wind forcing. This method can clarify mechanism that govern excitation of water waves by wind. These mechanisms are not yet understood.Proper modeling of wind input is essential for wave climate forecasting. The main advantage of this technique is that it is fully automated and computer-controlled. The experimental procedure can be easily adjusted for study wide variety of process and wind-wave generation.The experiments take place in this facility, which consists of a closed-loop wind tunnel above a wave tank. This is a schematic of the facility and some of its features. The direction of airflow is indicated by arrows.The tank is five meters long, 1/2 meters tall and 4/10 of a meter wide. The tank side walls and floor are made of glass supported by an aluminum frame. There is a flap and wave generator at one end of the tank.The flap smoothly expands the airflow cross-section as it enters the test area and serves as a reference for distance measurements. A wave energy absorber is at the opposite end of the tank. This consists of porous packing materials used to form a beach.There is a moveable carriage above the tank to hold instruments. For the experiment, have the tank filled to a depth of 20 centimeters and manually precision the carriage so the instruments will be at the desired fetch. Next, prepare some of the instruments for the experiment.Have a Pitot tube that can reach the center of the airflow. In addition, have a wave gauge that is mounted on a computer-controlled vertical stage. Use the carriage to mount the Pitot tube at the center of the test section's airflow.Then, mount the wave gauge on the carriage. Next, work with a laser slope gauges part. These consist of a laser diode, a Fresnel lens, a diffusive screen and a precision-sensing detector.Align the laser diode at the desired fetch below the water tank. Direct the beam vertically upward. The beam should be about seven centimeters from the wave gauge.After positioning the Fresnel lens and diffusive screen, use a level to check the horizontal and vertical alignment of the lens and screen before proceeding. Adjust the lens setting to the actual distance between the lens and the screen. To calibrate the wave gauge, set the vertical precision of the sensor.The mean water level should be approximately in the middle of the sensing wire's length. Set the blower speed to one of the desired levels and allow the wind to blow steadily for two to three minutes. As the wind blows, monitor the wave gauge's signal on an oscilloscope.Manually adjust the sensibility, gain and offset to ensure the voltage values corresponding to the highest crest and lowest trough are in the range of the AD converter. When done, shut down the blower and wait until the water surface is undisturbed. Repeat the calibration steps for each measuring location and maximum wind velocity expected in the experimental run.Now, calibrate the laser slope gauge. For this, use an optical wedge prism on a transparent support. View the output of the precision-sensing detector on an oscilloscope to check the calibration.Use different prisms to repeat this for several deflection angles. Once again, use a prism to deflect the vertical laser beam. In this case, deflect the beam to a radial position on the diffusive screen.Do this with several prisms while maintaining a constant azimuthal angle. For each position, record the output of the precision-sensing detector on the oscilloscope. When done, collect data by moving the laser spot to multiple positions in the X direction keeping the Y-coordinate constant.Repeat the same steps moving the Y-position and keeping the X-coordinate constant. Prepare the data acquisition system to record the desired quantities. To begin the experiment, make sure there is no wind.The water surface should be smooth and undisturbed. Activate the blower and start data acquisition at the same time. For this experiment, apply steady forcing for 200 seconds.Over time, the system will achieve a steady state. Use the oscilloscope to display data as it is being collected. This is an example of the surface slope data.Downwind on the left, cross-wind on the right. At the conclusion, shut down the blower and continue to collect data to record the decaying wave field. Allow sufficient time for the water to return to an undisturbed state before continuing.In each realization, three distinct stages can be identified. The initial wave growth with a start of the blower. The quasi-steady wind-wave field under constant wind forcing, and the decay of the waves following shutdown of the blower.Numerous independent realizations of wave field under impulsive wind forcing were recorded. And sample averaging provides results as a function of time relative to the instant of blower initiation. Here are the data for the RMS values of the instantaneous surface elevation as a function of time.The data were taken 120 centimeters from the flap and for three different wind velocities. The equilibrium quasi-steady-state characteristic wave amplitude increases with the wind velocity. Note the time to obtain the quasi-steady-state value does not appear to depend on the velocity.Data for different fetch values and the same three wind velocities show similar behavior. These plots are for instantaneous surface elevations. 220 centimeters from the flap, and 340 centimeters from the flap.Use the same data to explore the characteristic wave amplitudes for a constant target value of the wind velocity. This plot, for 6.5 meters per second is representative and demonstrates the equilibrium values of the RMS values of the surface elevation increases with fetch. The experiment also provides measurements of the RMS downwind and cross-wind components of the surface slope.These data are for two values of the fetch, 120 centimeters and 340 centimeters. For a target wind velocity of 6.5 meters per second, and also for a target wind velocity of 10.5 meters per second. Turn off the blower and the characteristic wave amplitude together with the surface slope components decay over about one minute independent of the fetch.Once mastered, a single realization using this procedure takes about eight minutes. The accumulation of 100 realizations requires about 13 hours of continuous experiment for a single wind target velocity and a fixed fetch. While attempting this procedure, it's important to remember that water evaporates and should be replenished from time to time.After its development, this technique paved the way for quantitative investigation water waves and steady wind forcing. After watching the video, you should have a good understanding of how quantitative results on unsteady and inhomogeneous wind-wave fields can be obtained.

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