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In This Article

  • Summary
  • Abstract
  • Introduction
  • Protocol
  • Results
  • Discussion
  • Disclosures
  • Acknowledgements
  • Materials
  • References
  • Reprints and Permissions

Summary

Hair cortisol concentration analysis provides an alternative to traditional measures of cortisol; however, to collect hair samples from African Americans, scientists need to be culturally informed and competent. The purpose of this protocol is to demonstrate a culturally informed technique to collect hair samples for cortisol analysis from African Americans.

Abstract

The hormone cortisol is typically assessed in saliva, serum, or urine samples. More recently, cortisol has been successfully extracted from hair, including humans. The advantage of hair cortisol concentration is that it reflects a retrospective representation of hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis function over time, much like hemoglobin A1C represents glycemic control. However, obtaining hair samples can be challenging, due to the cultural beliefs and hair care practices of minority participants. For example, African Americans may be reluctant to provide samples. Additionally, few researchers are trained to collect hair samples from African Americans. The purpose of this paper is to present a culturally informed protocol to help researchers obtain hair samples from African Americans. To illustrate the representative results of this protocol implementation, de-identified data from African Americans that participated in a community-based study on chronic stress are provided. Hair practice preferences are assessed. The participants are made comfortable by showing pictures of hair samples prior to cutting their hair. The single strain twist and gently pull method is used to collect approximately 30 - 50 strands of hair from the posterior vertex region of the scalp. This protocol will significantly improve collection of hair samples from African Americans.

Introduction

Collecting samples of saliva, blood, or urine for cortisol analysis has unique procedural challenges and greater participant burden, as the procedure requires multiple saliva samples, venipuncture samples, or 24-hour urine collection. Obtaining cortisol from hair samples is a simple and acceptable alternative to using saliva, serum, or urine samples1,2. Hair cortisol provides a retrospective representation of hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis function over time. Approximately 3 cm of hair collected from the scalp is equal to average cortisol release for the past 3 months1. However, researchers encounter unique challenges when attempting to collect hair samples across diverse populations. Such challenges include religious or spiritual beliefs including exposing hair (e.g., Muslim women), hair as sacred (American Indian groups), or cultural norms that connect hair to standards of beauty and self-image.

In the African American culture, particularly among women, scalp hair is a very personal and important aspect of their body image3,4. Further, historical experiences (e.g., the Tuskegee experiments) continue to foster mistrust in the research process5. Some African American folklore and cultural beliefs also suggest that the hair sample could be used in rituals that could cause harm6,7. Researchers should be aware of potential challenges that they may face in studies when African American participants are asked to provide hair samples.

In addition to issues surrounding body image, the specific techniques for collecting and handling hair samples from African Americans may differ from that of European Americans6,7. For example, African Americans may have straight, thin, curly, kinky, coarse, or a combination of these hair types, each requiring different techniques to collect and secure adequate hair samples for processing. Recent studies on samples of African American teens8, as well as multi-ethnic samples9, showed that collection of hair for cortisol level measurement was acceptable among African American participants. At present, there are no visual training procedures designed to provide researchers with the skill and cultural knowledge to collect hair samples in African Americans. The purpose of this paper is to present a culturally informed protocol to help researchers obtain adequate hair samples from African American participants. This method was developed with careful consideration of physical, psychosocial, and cultural characteristics relevant to collection of hair samples from African American adults. To date, there are no visual methods of collecting these samples, and this protocol will be the first guide that details proper hair sample collection from African American adults. To illustrate the representative results of the protocol implementation, de-identified data are presented from African Americans that participated in a community-based study on chronic stress that were aged 65 and older. Both male and female research assistants from a variety of racial backgrounds contacted potential participants from a clinic generated list and flyers. The primary investigator, who is an African American woman, spoke at community centers and senior subsidized housing apartments to older adult African Americans about the study, including a description of the hair collection methods.

Protocol

The study is approved by the University Hospitals Cleveland Medical Center Institutional Review Board, and the protocol follows the guidelines of participant protection and data safety as indicated by the review committee.

1. Prepare Participant for Hair Sample and Hair Sample Collection Questions

  1. Explain to participant that the hair sample collected is less hair than that is lost normally in brushing each day from the back of the head (posterior vertex). Tell the participant that the site for the hair sample is hidden by surrounding hair and, thus, is not visible after collection. Inform the participant that the sample will be used to measure a hormone called cortisol present in the hair10,11.
  2. Take out the sample photo and show the participant the amount of hair that will be collected (30 - 50 strands).
    NOTE: See Figure 1 for photo of a hair sample.
  3. Ask the participant the hair care practice12 questions listed in Table 1.

2. Collect the Hair Sample

  1. Tell the participant that the sample is collected in a private area behind a portable partition, curtain, or closed door. Assure participants that, if they wear a wig or hairpiece, their hair is not cut in an area where others may see. Measure hair length from scalp to end by pulling the hair gently and taut.
  2. If the hair is short (less than 3 cm), follow the short hair protocol in step 3 (although if the hair is less than 1 cm long, the sample cannot be collected, and, ideally, the hair should be at least 3 cm long). For hair longer than 6 cm, follow the long hair protocol in step 4. Otherwise, continue to the next step.
  3. Ensure that materials are ready by placing the hair cutting supplies (a sheet of aluminum foil, business envelope, salon grade scissors, large and small tooth parting comb, alcohol preps, painters tape, permanent marker, non-latex gloves [optional], and hair clips)10 on a surface next to the participant. Clean the scissors and comb with the alcohol prep pad before collecting the sample. Cut out an 8 x 10" sheet of aluminum foil to use for the sample.
  4. Put on non-latex gloves. Take the comb and part the hair horizontally along the posterior vertex of the scalp between the tips of the ears.
  5. Take a clip and move the hair from the top of the part, then place another clip at the bottom to expose a 5 x 10 cm rectangle between the two clips of loose hair (about the size of a deck of playing cards).
  6. Ask the participant if they prefer use of a wide tooth or narrow tooth comb through the 2 - 3" rectangle of hair. Ask the participant how she or he would like to have the remaining hair in the comb discarded. Give the hair in the comb to the participant, or, if (and only if) the participant states that it is okay to discard the loose hair, discard the remaining hair from the comb into a trash can.
  7. Grasp approximately 30 - 50 strands of hair to the right of the 2 - 3" rectangle and gently pull and twist the hair away from the scalp in a rolling motion between the fingers.
  8. Ensure that the sample is collected as close to the scalp as possible, but do not cut the scalp. Use salon-grade scissors and make a clean straight cut.
  9. Grasp the hair sample and ensure that the root end is aligned carefully along the cut.
  10. Attach the hair to the sheet of aluminum foil by taping with painter's tape. Do not cover the scalp end, and do not use painter's tape on hair that is shorter than or equal 3 cm. Place the loose cut hair into the center of the foil and fold into a square, ensuring that the hair does not fall out of the foil.
  11. Take the marker and label the scalp end on the aluminum foil. Use premade bar-coded labels to attach to the foil and envelope.
  12. Fold the aluminum foil without folding the hair on the scalp end to prevent bed head (crumpled and bent hair), place it in the business size envelope, and seal.
  13. Label the outside of the envelope with the participant's unique study identification number, date, and the name of the primary investigator, or use a bar code label if available.
  14. Store the sample in a dry area at room temperature.

3. Sample Collection for Short Hair (1 - 3 cm)

  1. Follow steps 2.3 and 2.4.
  2. After parting, ask the participant to hold the parted hair close to the scalp. Cut the hair along the part, while holding the hair tightly with index finger and thumb10.
  3. Place loose hairs in foil and fold it securely. Do not tape the hair to the foil.
  4. Follow steps 2.11 through 2.14.

4. Sample Collection for Long Hair (longer than 6 cm)

  1. Part the hair left to right at the posterior vertex.
  2. Use the hair clips to hold back the extra hair.
  3. Create a twist of hair and hold tightly with the index finger and thumb so as not to drop the sample10.
  4. Make a clean straight cut as close to the scalp as possible. Collect 30 - 50 strands of hair.
  5. If the participant has thin hair, then cut 2 - 3 small areas (1 cm apart) across the posterior vertex to conceal the site of the cut.
  6. Follow steps 2.10 through 2.14.

5. Sample Processing

  1. Store the foil packets containing the hair sample at room temperature indefinitely until analysis.
    Note: Hair cortisol is extremely stable in hair and can be stored for years. In fact, cortisol has been measured in hair samples from mummified remains11.
  2. Analyze hair cortisol as previously published12. Samples can be shipped overnight at ambient temperature.

Results

In our study, twenty-one African Americans (mean age = 75; SD = 6.9; 85% female) consented to participate. Four participants (19%) refused to provide a hair sample and two (9.5%) could not provide a sample because their hair was too short. A total of 15 hair samples were obtained and processed (Table 2). The length of the hair samples that were processed ranged from 1 cm to 4.8 cm. Technical problems included samples were poorly aligned at the scalp end, tangled, or curly...

Discussion

Essential steps in the hair collection protocol include providing an example of how much hair will be taken, showing the sample site (posterior vortex), use of the single strain twist and gently pull method, and securing the sample with painter's tape away from the scalp end. By gently twisting and pulling the sample, the curly hair is lengthened and the scalp end alignment is maintained. This reduces laboratory time needed to align the scalp ends, measure, and cut the sample. Although thinning shears have been used ...

Disclosures

The Behavioral Immunology and Endocrinology Laboratory is designated as a Laboratory of Excellence by Salimetrics, LLC.

Acknowledgements

This publication was made possible by the Clinical and Translational Science Collaborative of Cleveland; KL2TR000440 from the National Center for Advancing Translational Sciences (NCATS) component of the National Institutes of Health; and NIH Roadmap for Medical Research. Dr. Jodi Ford's work in this area has been funded by the National Institutes of Health National Institute on Drug Abuse (1R21DA034960) and The Ohio State University Institute for Population Research seed grant funding from the National Institute of Child Health and Development (2P2CHD058484). The content is solely the responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily represent the official views of the National Institutes of Health. Dr. Laudenslager's work in this area has been funded by a contract from the Patient-Centered Outcomes Research Institute (CE-1304-6208), a grant from the Administration for Children and Families (90YR0058), and a grant from the Developmental Psychobiology Research Group Endowment Fund of the Department of Psychiatry, University of Colorado Denver Anschutz Medical Campus.

Materials

NameCompanyCatalog NumberComments
 Salon grade scissorsCricketS-3 550Carded Professional Hair Shear, 5.5 inch
Large tooth combGoodyNo catalog number__Goody Stylista Rake Comb   Link to Company website  http://www.goody.com/Products/Styling_Tools/Goody_Stylista_Rake_Comb?colId=d11c04a1-1dd3-4848-a313-046fc6c109ec&c_id=35a36c88-d359-4104-a53c-dfbfd8452780
Small tooth combGoodyNo catalog number_ Goody Start.Style.Finish. Link to company website http://www.goody.com/Products/Styling_Tools/Goody_StartStyleFinish_Combs?colId=d11c04a1-1dd3-4848-a313-046fc6c109ec&c_id=35a36c88-d359-4104-a53c-dfbfd8452780
Alcohol prepsKendall Webcol Alcohol PrepsNo catalog number. Kendall Webcol Alcohol Prepshttps://www.buyemp.com/product/kendall-webcol-alcohol-preps
Painter's tape3M ScotchScotchBlue ORIGINAL Painter’s Tapehttps://www.scotchblue.com/3M/en_US/scotchblue/products/painters-tape/
Permanent markerSharpieBlack Sharpie Fine Pointhttp://www.sharpie.com/sharpie/fine/SHFineBlackFine.html
Non-latex glovesProtégé93997Protege®Nitrile Powder-Free Examination Gloves http://aureliagloves.com/product/protege/
Hair clips GoodyGoody Start.Style.Finish. Curl Clipshttp://www.goody.com/Products/Styling_Tools/Goody_StartStyleFinish_Curl_Clips
EnvelopeOffice Depo330808Office Depot® Brand Clasp Envelopes, 9" x 12", Brown, Box Of 100
Foil sheets Choice 1229105Box of 500 Sheets Food Service Interfolded Pop-up foil sheets 
Pre-weighed 2 ml cryovialWheaton, Millville, NJ, USAW985902
100% isopropanolSpectrumI1275 | 67-63-0
Liquid nitrogen Ohio State Unversity StoresGas Cylinder Warehousehttp://osustores.osu.edu/prodservices/liquidnitrogen.aspx
Stainless steel ball bearing McMasterCarr9291K42https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-balls/=1acqby0
Specially milled aluminum cassettesFisherScientific Retsch 20.745.0001
HPLC grade methanolFisherScientific A452N1-19https://www.fishersci.com/shop/products/methanol-hplc-fisher-chemical-6/p-216129
Microcentrifuge tubeEppendorf North America22363352https://online-shop.eppendorf.us/US-en/Laboratory-Consumables-44512/Tubes-44515/Eppendorf-Safe-Lock-Tubes-PF-8863.html?_ga=2.36544352.1776616592.1511283212-1254533852.1511283212
Cortisol ELISA KitSalimetrics LLC, State College, PA, USA1-3002 (5PK 1-3002-5)https://www.salimetrics.com/assay-kit/cortisol-salivary-elisa-eia-kit
Centtrifuge for the micorcentrifuge tubeBeckman CoulterMicrofuge 20 serieshttp://centrifugebybeckman.com/?page_id=727/?pi_ad_id=creative?utm_term=microfuge

References

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  2. Wright, K. D., Hickman, R., Laudenslager, M. L. Hair cortisol analysis: a promising biomarker of HPA activation in older adults. Gerontologist. 55, 140-145 (2015).
  3. Awad, G. H., et al. Beauty and body image concerns among African American college women. J Black Psychol. 41 (6), 540-564 (2015).
  4. Capodilupo, C. M., Kim, S. Gender and race matter: the importance of considering intersections in Black women's body image. J Couns Psychol. 61 (1), 37-49 (2014).
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  8. Ford, J. L., Boch, S. J., McCarthy, D. O. Feasibility of hair collection for cortisol measurement in population research on adolescent health. Nurs Res. 65 (3), 249-255 (2016).
  9. Wosu, A. C., et al. Hair cortisol in relation to sociodemographic and lifestyle characteristics in a multiethnic US sample. Ann Epidemiol. 25 (2), 90-95 (2015).
  10. Webb, E., et al. Assessing individual systemic stress through cortisol analysis of archaeological hair. J Archaeolog Sci. 37 (4), 807-812 (2010).
  11. Russell, E., et al. Toward standardization of hair cortisol measurement: results of the first international interlaboratory round robin. Ther Drug Monit. 37 (1), 71-75 (2015).
  12. Bosley, R. E., Daveluy, S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 95 (2), 78-80 (2015).
  13. Loussouarn, G. African hair growth parameters. Brit J Derm. 145 (2), 294-297 (2001).
  14. Hoffman, M. C., Karban, L. V., Goodteacher, A., Laudenslager, M. L. Chemical processing and shampooing impact cortisol measured in human hair. Clin Invest Med. 37 (4), 252-257 (2014).
  15. Ramirez, J., Elmofty, M., Castillo, E., DeRouen, M., Shariff-Marco, S., Allen, L., et al. Evaluation of cortisol and telomere length measurements in ethnically diverse women with breast cancer using culturally sensitive methods. J Community Genet. 8, 75-86 (2017).

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Keywords Hair Cortisol AnalysisAfrican AmericansCulturally SensitiveTwist And Roll ManeuverHair Sample CollectionLong term Cortisol ExposureHair Care PracticesHair PartingHair CombingHair Discarding

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